Tapas Top the Menu at Tolima

There are three different ways to experience Tolima, a little gem of a restaurant in Chatham's Hickory Square Shopping Center.

You can try its small plates mid-week and Sundays; experience its American regional cuisine on Fridays and Saturdays; enjoy a three-course dinner and movie package all week long. (For the $30 three-course meal, one gets a free ticket to Roberts Chatham Cinema.) There are many options. And in keeping with its multiple personalities, Tolima's menu also changes daily and incorporates seasonal products into all of its offerings, which only adds to its charm. One can't help but root for a chef who has no problem switching up over 20 dishes every single day.

Tolima's unique tapas options ($8.50) are many and varied. While there are definitely some Spanish influences delicately sprinkled among a few of the specials, most of the small plates are better characterized as fusion American small plates, rather than traditional tapas. If you are expecting tortilla espanola, croquetas, or shrimp in garlic sauce, you won't find it here—at least not on a regular basis. But once you move past the nomenclature, all that's left is sheer enjoyment. Whether it's a butternut squash and pumpkin bisque with coconut Thai curry cream, griddled brie over seasonal greens, toasted almonds, and strawberries, or a crepe filled with sautéed spinach, goat cheese, and roasted red pepper, there's no doubt that something truly inspired is happening in the tiny, partially open-style kitchen at the back of the house.

On a recent visit, I sampled the cumin and coriander spiced pork loin topped with a tomato onion salad over a rice tower. The dish had complex layers of flavor, a duo of sauces (guacamole and Espanola), and contrasting textures that all worked together to form a truly wonderful bite. Likewise, I found the addition of bok choy to the shredded greens and smoked salmon "tostada" a welcome, unusual surprise. Equally excellent was the Tandoori spiced chicken, which was served over fried plantains with another duo: a mango chutney and a coconut Thai curry sauce. The dish was so good, I was tempted to ask the chef for the recipe so I could make it every day for the next week.

Tapas nights also feature several entrees that can be ordered mid- ($12.50) or full-size ($19.50), such as pan roasted chicken breast wrapped in applewood smoked bacon over cheese grits or an herb-seared New York sirloin topped with broiled sea scallops and remoulade sauce. There are also a la carte entrees such as pan-fried black sea bass ($24), roasted veal loin chop ($25.50) and rack of lamb ($26). Regular "dinner night" main courses range from a seared maple leaf duck breast to a pan seared salmon finished with General Tso's sauce over soba noodles ($26 each).

And, while it all sounds quite lovely, I found Tolima's mains to be a bit lackluster when compared to its truly outstanding small plates. The paprika-rubbed, pan-seared grouper was adequate, although it paled in comparison to the true star of the plate: a show-stopping chorizo potato hash side dish. Interestingly enough, the chicken and seafood risotto "paella," which is one of the restaurant's most popular dishes, was a bit of a disappointment. The pasta was soupy instead of creamy; the chicken was cut fairly large and was a bit dried out; and the reference to paella promised more than the dish ultimately delivered.

That said, however, I do commend Tolima for offering portion options—one of which might be to skip the entrees altogether and concentrate on more of its wonderful small plates. With over 13 tapas to choose from, plus Montaditos (a choice of four toppings served on bread for $10.50 or $3 each) and a three-item sampler plate ($10.50), one can certainly fashion a fantastic meal out of small plates alone and not have room for the limited dessert menu (items cost $6 to $6.50 each).

Service at Tolima is attentive and surprisingly quick considering there is limited staff. The restaurant has an artistic flair—canvases, vases, and sculptures are carefully placed around the small but well-thought out space. There is, however, a draft from the front, which can chill the room in an instant if the door isn't fully closed.

All in all, there are reasons to visit—and revisit—Tolima, the foremost of which is to experience its chef's skill at crafting unfussy, "few-bite" starters that are gorgeous to behold and even better to taste. The beauty is in the restaurant's seemingly straightforward simplicity, sophisticated flavorings, and surprising "fusioned" ingredients. While it might not be tapas as you know it, it sure tastes sensational.

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Tolima

641 Shunpike Road, Chatham

973-410-0700

Hours of Operation:

Tapas: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 5:30-9 pm

Tapas: Sunday, 4-7 pm

Dinner: Friday and Saturday, 5:30-9 pm

Dinner & Movie Package*: Tuesday through Saturday, 5:30-6:30 pm

Dinner & Movie Package*: Sunday, 4-6:30 pm

*Dinner & Movie: $30 per person, includes one movie ticket to Roberts Chatham Cinema plus a 3-course meal

BYO. Catering available.

Visa and Mastercard accepted.